Klipper bulging corners reddit. Or check it out in the app stores .
- Klipper bulging corners reddit With input shaper tuning I was able to print 75-100mm/s with pretty decent quality, which is about twice as fast as the stock setup would do. Klipper also supports resonance compensation which Marlin does not. Think i remember seeing a Klipper setting for pressure advance, doing a bit of reading it sounds like about the same thing as Marlins linear advance. Klipper uses pressure advance to overcome this. It makes it move around the corners faster, giving the plastic less time to ooze there. The tower method while being slower (although as others have mentioned, can be sped up by using just 1 or 2 perimeters and not infill or top layers) makes it very clear, where the bulging fades out and where corner start to break apart. Make sure you tune it at roughly the speed you print your outer perimeters at. Or check it out in the app stores New Klipper install bottom layers bulge. The ESP32 series employs either a Tensilica Xtensa LX6, Xtensa LX7 or a RiscV processor, and both dual-core and single-core variations are available. I've had pressure advance and retraction tuned in, so the bulging corners might be related to jerk. The rest of it has gaps between the lines. Just a reminder that you will never get 'sharp' corners, they will always be rounded somewhat. 063 is what I got. Orca Slicer has a PA test on the menu. I thought my acceleration and print speed were the culprit but my recent testing has proven otherwise. In the Klipper docs they make PA seem like it's just to remove blobs/zits, by coasting (under extruding) before sharp corners, but it looks like You can print without it but you will see bulging corners and other issues plus your retractions will be larger. 3, Trying to follow the guide on klipper. Fast 3d printers vs quality prints . The log file has been engineered to answer common questions the Klipper developers have about the software and its environment (software version, To be honest - I do see rarely a difference as far as the "rounded corners" are concerned. The corners of my prints have excess material, and I don't know how to fix it! With a calibration cube I get perfect 20mm dimensions measured at the middle, but 20. x firmware. and there would have been helpful something like: try for the ender-3 pro with bowden What you are trying to do is very much attainable (100mm/s with sharp corners). It also reduces needed retractions and greatly reduces stringing. on the other hand: pressure advance ( the klipper equivalent of linear advance ) works without any problem on that board. Or it might just be pressure build up due to the bowden system and you'd need to halve your outerwall speed (around 20/30mm/s is a good value for outerwalls) The print head slightly pauses at the corner to change directions which releases the build up Bulging corners on prints Troubleshooting I've printed a calibration cube and my printer (Ender 3 V3 SE) keeps bulding the corners. Finally starting to lock in my prints, on last issue Cr10 Converted to 24 v 750w silicon heatbed Skr1. Linear Advance seeks to correct that by more precisely modulating extrusion and movement speed to mitigate this, leading to less visible seams, less bulging corners and smoother prints. Maybe your hardware just can't manage what's being asked of it, or maybe you have not got the config right. however, my main question would have been to you - because i could already see here that you have a plan of klipper - which value range you would consider reasonable to try out with the ender-3 pro. g. Sort by: Best. 3 Klipper 2208 in uart stealth disabled on extruder Octoprint E3dv6 hot end 0. 005 for pla abs and petg. edit : ender 3 v2, with biqu h2 DD edit 2: also i upgraded to the biqu h2 DD after installing klipper because my dual gear metal bowden sounded like it couldnt keep up for how fast the printer wanted to print now I was never able to not have bulging corners on my stock Ender 3. I also turned the wall jerk down to 5mm/s and that has fixed mostly those issues. It doesn’t have anything to do with that project tho. The trick to this I worked out was pretty simple. Obligatory Klipper pressure advance plug, since I don't see one. for the bulging corners: linear advance ( marlin ) / pressure advance ( klipper ) for reducing ringing: resonance /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. 0 extruder. 1 Corners peeled because I didn’t clean my bed but finally got rid of any bulging layer lines. Reddit iOS Reddit Android Reddit Premium About Reddit Advertise Blog Careers Press. Still in warranty. It's because they slow down near the corners but the extruder doesn't compensate, so filament tends to bunch up and create these bulges. org /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. Would having that tuned affect even the flow in ironing? This is a common issue with 3D printers. The setting which affects the bulging corners is Pressure Advance. Check all rollers are tight but roll smooth. I have reduced flow to 70% for bottom/top layers and no change. and it’s not about speed but about getting the cleanest corners possible. 😁 Calibration Cubes You know how is you print a square the corners will have a little roundness to them almost like a small circle was put on the corner. Klipper can help you and your machine produce beautiful prints at a fraction of the time. I used CaliLantern to tune skew and shrinkage and I get +/-0. It’s easy to dial in on a direct drive machine but IMO a waste of time on a Bowden, I get sharper corners but a bunch of other trade offs. 2 board with TMC2208 drivers so I cant run linear advance and I needed to figure something else out. Anyone have any tips on what settings I may need to change to correct this? Reply reply 132K subscribers in the FixMyPrint community. This mainly removes ghosting near sharp edges and further helps to sharpen up your Pressure advance is a useful tool to enhance (sharp) corners at high(er) speeds. co/yQ7s8q3. The walls are accurate thickness Klipper’s Pressure Advance feature solves several problems that affect your print quality at high speeds. It's the guts of an old Cubex Trio with Klipper running on a Raspberry Pi 3B and a couple of Blue Pill (stm32) boards I cobbled together. Retraction: 0. Both of these solutions solve bulging corners, in slightly different ways. effectively turning it off. 75mm at 20mm/s Print Speed: 60mm/s Temps: 210°C/60°C should sharpen up the corners too. Hello, on my Creality Ender 3 V3 KE, I am getting bulging at sharp corners even after calibrating pressure advance. Now I use pressure advance tuning in combination with acceleration tuning to have much nicer, Ender 3 v2 with dual z, klipper, and bmg 2. Tried everything I could think of with Marlin, the only way I was able to reliably reduce these artifacts, was to turn linear advance way down (which increased bulging in the corners), print much slower, and make sure to print interior walls before outer. You can try slowing down your outer wall speed, or by tweaking your "jerk" settings to change how the printer behaves around corners. The seam was bulging then too Reply On ender3 v3 se, klipper using orca slicer. The bulging corners look like a linear advance issue, but I have never tuned it on a marlin machine. It seems the latest fad seems to be super fast printing, Flsun super racer, Flsun 400, Creality ender 7 as examples. Having issues with uneven layers. p. The filament is ESUN Black PETG and Bulging corners you need to fix with linear advance or similar that reduces extrusion in corners. edit subscriptions. The other Why are my corners bulging upwards at higher speeds? Ive recently moved over to orca slicer instead of creality print. Klipper can indeed run on a pi zero 2w and allows you to start, stop and transfer gcodes remotely. I think it’s acceleration and jerk, but I don’t remember. The bulging corners is a pressure advance issue. Yes, less ringing (input shaper), minimised corner bulging (pressure advance that actually works on a Creality board) and no stuttering on complex curves. This extra length can range from 0. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. My Marlin settings were, Hi @Nyshan,. org, added the 2 commands into the console, and I'm not seeing any variance in the corners. Here is what i mean: first layer The wobble in extrusion creates ringing like artifacts on the exterior of the print. For my bedslinger, 3. popular-all-random-users | AskReddit-pics-funny-movies-gaming-worldnews-news-todayilearned-nottheonion-explainlikeimfive Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 2 comments To be fair its probably worth mentioning to OP that it is possible to use klipper on the 3 pro but that this would require a separate klipper host. Running at these speeds requires your belts and wheels to be nice and tight, or you’ll get a lot of ringing. I am printing at twice that with slightly less accel (2k) and only get bulging on very sharp corners or small models (. On creality print i printed the same model with the same speed, accels, flow, temps, layer height, layer width, z-offset, Prior to enabling linear advance the walls would kind of "sweep" into the corner and form a kind of gradual bulge now the walls are sharper and I end up with a subtle "sharp" bulge at the corner. Again best set with some custom gcode. If the dimencions are way off, there is something else wrong. This is not an official Klipper support channel and poorly moderated so ymmv. I never knew there was an acceptable range of PA values with my extruder/matieral the old lines method would give best-case results with a PA of 0. I was experiencing bulging corners on my prints. If the cube looks a lot better but the corners are still a bit rounded or bulging don't sweat it, that's what pressure advance / linear advance and flow rate calibrations are all about. Terms & Policies Bulging corners is from pressure build up in the nozzle, you can try linear advance on marlin or klipper has pressure advance which should get rid of that For me this looks like incorrect pressure advance. It seems to be over extruding on the corners (e steps calibrated perfectly) like it is lingering on corners, so I tried doubling jerk. After calibrating Klipper pressure advance and using the accelerometer for input shaper these are completely gone. How do we fix the over-extrusion? Edit: Yeah, I just tried it. Big fan of Ellis' guide, but the PA pattern test just doesn't do it for me. A better test would be one of the voron or annex cubes which have tolerance for a bearing or prints meant to fit together for tolerance. Running a longer test print now to see how it holds up. 003 to 0. But don’t remember what setting i need to adjust again. upvotes Crank up print speed and acceleration in your slicer. here is mine for my ender 5+ with klipper: M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start preheating the bed G28 ; home M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; heat to Cura Bed setting M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}; heat to Cura Hotend ;*** End Preheating *** ;M420 S1 Klipper can help you and your machine produce beautiful prints at a fraction of the time. Klipper running on V2 with a Sprite Pro, sliced in Cura. 2. if you have problems with bulging corners it helps a lot and it also reduces the needed retraction amount. 05 a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. Bulge on the Letters not fixed. Dammit, i've had a thinko first principles, definition of square corner velocity in the kipper kinematics docs, definition of marlin jerk. Before using Klipper I had bulging corners and obvious ringing on prints. Measured 3x and averaged Well, I do use Klipper, and have tuned my pressure advance before (which I think is the Klipper version), but seeing the bulging on the corners of this, I think I could stand to tune it up a bit more. I am trying to understand if it's relatively normal /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. 0 set my extrusion multiplier to be as close as 0. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home Open navigation Go to Reddit Home /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. Fixes it only on the right hand side of each face, letters better but not fixed fully, and notably not fixed on the edge of the Y face again. 035, but Ellis' new One issue I am trying to address is overshoot on the corners. Have a look in the Klipper documentation. MZV has less of pre-corner bulge but more ringing, while EI2 has a little more pre-corner bulge than MZV but still less than ZVD while reducing ringing and having a lower post-corner depression. Check Klipper out on discord, discourse, or Klipper3d. But it's always good to test if you need it and I agree with @The-Scotsman_ that you should use ellis3dp's guide to . I figure it’s goal is to keep nozzle movement above the set value None of corners shown above were seam corners. Definitely look into this if you update to the Community Firmware, it will be night and day difference to your overall print quality. Old Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now I was playing with speeds to fix my issue with the corners of my prints bulging, and damn i guess an ender 3 can print really fast with good results :D every motor has been replaced with a bigger one, belts replaced, fans are 4020/dual 5015's, running klipper, BTT E3V3 mobo Anyway,I edited the OP to show a test result. I'm sure having a direct drive helps since i always fall between 0. Linear advance ( marlin ) / Pressure advance ( klipper ) but to use it, your firmware needs to support it ( needs to be activated while compiling marlin ) Pressure builds up at the tool head slows down around corners, so there’s always a little bulge if it’s not tuned Hi All, I'm just getting my printer to work. The bulging corners are caused by residual pressure in the system when the printhead decelerates for the corner. 6 nozzle probably a factor). Anything about 3d printing and 3d printers Switching to Klipper while your printer has physical problems isn't going to fix anything -- you need to get your other problems solved first. You don't have to use PA if your corners look fine at the speed you're printing. My E3 couldn't do good corners at 70 mm / sec with Marlin 1. When i did linear advance, i could get crisp corners but the topmost layer in XYZ calibration cube looked bad with those rough ridges created by the movement of nozzle, which indicated to me that standard rotation distance given in klipper file was letting my extruder over extrude a bit so i just tuned rotation distance and now it looks quite nice. hi have a ender 5 plus for about 1 month having issues with printing sharp corner ive done all calibration retraction tower with filament using is 8. 1 on all axes, beating in mind that the stock gantry will speed up towards the extents of travel (due to non-parallel belt pathing) which will skew the print towards the extremes of the travel. Everything looks good, except for these corners that bulge about 0. the z-seam. org Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Bulging corners, excessive stringing, and inaccurate dimensions are the most notable issues you’ll run into 3D printing /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. The large cube was printed in the same amount of time as the small one that has those annoying bulging corners. Same kinda issue on top. This is with a Spider V1 I am having issues with my Kobra Plus printing bulging corners and I am having a hard time understanding Cura's settings to fix this based off what I read. Open comment sort options I regularly print at 120mm/s with the klipper FW on the ender 3. For the OP, I don't see bulging corners which would need preassure/linear advance. This can lead to stringing blobs and bulging print corners and decrease print accuracy. /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. It reduces stringing, gives your prints sharp corners, and delivers a high print quality even at speeds above 100 mm/s. Reply reply ZeligD • I’d just done my Pressure Advance :( 0. . The main issue I’m looking to solve is bulging corners during “high speed” 90mm/s printing. I find it hard to narrow down the best corners. You may want to reprint to double-check and confirm accuracy, but for myself I would say, I just try to get a pretty good approximate value and then tweak while I run my next few real prints. Helps reduce stringing on travel moves without needing as much retraction, but doesn't really do anything for corner bulge. Calibration cube is a flawed test, and things like elephants foot and bulging corners can affect measurements. Posted by u/UrKillnMe - 6 votes and 10 comments Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. A bed mesh on any printer that uses a sheet metal bed showing a total variation of 0. It also illustrates deterioration in the middle of the dual-speed section. So like, I come from an engineering background and took control systems courses (more emphasis on closed-loop controls), and I do /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. I've adjusted the outer wall speed to print slower but it still bulges. I have also seen evidence that linear advance isn't supported on the 4. You can probably do around 80-100mm/s on a stock Ender 3 with 3000mm/s2 acceleration. 13 votes, 14 comments. If your Digging around in settings brought me to square_corner_velocity, which seems to be Klipper’s version of jerk. Setting View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit Corners bulging So i just finished installing Klipper on my e3v2 and this is the second print, the corners are bulging and idk what to do, not sure if i have to calibrate my Why are my corners bulging upwards at higher speeds? Ive recently moved over to orca slicer instead of creality print. Why are my corners bulging upwards at higher speeds? Ive recently moved over to orca slicer instead of creality print. I have the 4. Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. more info in comments Over the past 4 days I've been playing with the print settings but the best I've gotten is barely noticeable corner bulge at an hour print time. I shouldve had 10mm widths, these are my results. 1mm Printer: Modix Big 60 3d Fuel PLA 200C/60C 100mm/s for all speed settings in Cura 5. Looking at the walls and those bulging corners I’d say you’re over-extruding. Might try the same K value with default 500 acceleration values after it finishes. Pressure advance is the way and the only way I know of getting it on an Ender 3 is with Klipper Firmware or something similar. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Hard to tell if it's just the lighting perhaps, but it looks to me like you've got bulging corners from the bottom to around 80% of the way up, then nice "square" corners for a short bit, then they start to fall apart above that. PA will often improve quality even at slow speeds so I would for sure tune in some PA. 05mm< to 0. Anoyone know what causes this? View community ranking In the Top 10% of largest communities on Reddit. If you don't know about it, pressure advance on Klipper is one of the methods to address this. Here are some of the basic settings that I have, but if something sounds wrong, if there are more settings you want to know, or any suggestions for some changes, any help would be amazingly On my delta, ZVD dampens ringing the most, but at the cost of a bulge pre-corner and depression post-corner before settling back to a straight line. Gets me a reliable 97mm/s (stock extruder) at 4500mm/s/s acceleration with no bulging corners or ghosting. Pictures of my symptoms are here: Reddit's OG off-piste sub for all things backcountry skiing/splitboarding. So you can try to increase the Square Corner Velocity instead. Similarly, as the print head comes to a corner, the extruder doesn't reduce the pressure as fast as the nozzle decelerates, causing slight overextrusion; similarly you can get underextrusion as the pressure takes a moment to rise when the nozzle accelerates out of a corner. 1 mm from the surface. Make note of the accelerations you're currently using, and don't dive straight in by adding a zero to than number in klipper. Here I have the kobra max and I have the same issue. This is unsurprising since you have a direct drive system which will limit these artifacts. I use cura, but I decided to download and try prusa slicer, and I found that the bulging corners were slightly better, but the only reason I can find is because it slowed down the first few layers a good deal more then I did with cura. it is simple. And that creates bulging edges. I recommend Andrew Ellis's tool over Kippers suggested method, as it is quicker to print, uses less filament and is easier to read. If i then divide the value by 3, the faster sections will be fine again, but on the slower sections, the effect of pressure advance would be too low (bulging on corners, over extrusion on infill line endings) Notice is on square corners also sunk in on the outside and bulging on the inside. Fyi you will always have a small amount of bulging unless you upgrade your board to take advantage of linear advance or install Klipper for pressure advance. Try klipper if the B1 doesn't support linear advance. Bulging corners 3. It's a terrible picture, but shows the progression of an awful corner, to a bulging corner, to a good corner, to a deteriorating corner. The layers with the letters are being printed slower due to multiple cornering, so they have a higher layer time. Having this set just right gets more and more important the more you crank the acceleration up. Only time I slow it down is if the filament refuses to melt correctly (I've got some grey that will underextrude even at 235 unless I slow the printer down) I did this to fix my bulging corners! Even without input shaping and pressure advance it should give you a fitting part. Will se what the support says. All 4 corners are the same, it's just that on one side of the corner i have no bulging at a different height than the other side. Result: https://ibb. Interestingly the overshoot is on both sides of the corners. 4mm wall set my e step calibration someone Btw is it the bulging corners that in relation makes this kind of marks looks like under extrusion? Or is it an actual under extrusion just before the corner? Looked in to klipper as well but doesn't seem that easy due to their locked up config. I have a PEI bed and have had great success with klipper, but have had to turn this value all the way down to 1 mm/s to get bed adhesion. I get the same bulging corners that I would get before I started using Klipper, and when watching the extruder, it's clear it's not retracting on the perimeter. Pressure Advance is to reduce bulging on corners or other situations where the printhead slows down whoch might cause extra filament to be pushed out causing inaccurate prints. What am I doing wrong? I have my default speed set to 200mms, my layer height to 0. If klipper handles a square corner parallel to the axes at square_corner_velocity, hereafter k, and marlin handles the same with a jerk in x followed instantly by a the same jerk in y, then k is the vector sum of the two perpendicular jerks It's my understanding that coasting only applies at points where there would be a retraction, e. Klipper to the rescue. Teaching Tech and Ellis3DP are two good sites for getting firmware and slicer settings dialed in well. It did not look like there was a Klipper log file attached to this ticket. I'm running Klipper, Fluidd, and solid steel bed spacers instead of springs on my e3v2. Please be aware that LinAdv on TMC steppers requires a newer Marlin release, as it's broken in the LTS. This fork o klipper has all the funcionalities from main klipper ( actually from 0xD34D fork ) plus support for the original printers display. 25K subscribers in the 3dprinter community. You also need to retune it between different filaments, or at least between different filaments types. Why are my corners bulging upwards at higher speeds? Ive recently moved over to orca slicer instead jump to content. Reply reply ESP32 is a series of low cost, low power system on a chip microcontrollers with integrated Wi-Fi and dual-mode Bluetooth. Hello, I've really been enjoying klipper but am trying to narrow down a strange extrusion issue that I wasn't seeing in Marlin. you do have to have something in the start gcode. Even just adding 10c to the nozzle and increasing the speed by 30 would would have a noticable difference. corner bulging on calibration cube, please help. I made a stress cube with features on a 20mm face to test ghosting and a clean 10mm face to check my corners. That’s why K1 Max introduces the Pressure Advance. As you can see, I get very clean and stable results all places but exterior corners. Check I'm mostly using the stock cura settings for the hornet with a few changes. Getting nasty bulging corners off of my ender 3 S1, and can't seem to find a good tutorial on hot to calibrate Pressure advance, Can anyone please share their profile for ender 3 S1 ( orca slicer) Link to a tutorial? View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. In both cases the overshoot is about 0,25mm in height. i thought maybe its acceleration related but this is on the very slow first layer so surely it shouldnt be seen here? /r/klippers -- a place to discuss all things related to the Klipper 3d Printer Firmware. 3mm> depending on how far off the jerk/junction deviation value is. Your corners are slightly bulging which will change the measurements by a few tenths. There is just too much momentum to slow down the extrusion rate. It is the equivalent of the pressure advance setting on klipper, and I guess the theory behind it is the same (strategically adjust the flow The corners on the fast parts of the print, and the ends of the infill lines will disappear, or at least appear very under extruded. Then I moved to setting the pressure (linear) advance and it doesn't seem to do anything - no matter the settings the effect is always the same, at least to my eye. Otherwise you'll always have to much plastic on the corners no matter how hard you jerk. A rather boring pressure advance test cube. Klipper runs far better and the pressure advanced tuning is awesome for getting rid of bulging corners. It's a big commitment but I can definitely say I get way cleaner prints and at 2x the speed using pressure advance and input shaping turned on (compensating for ghosting at high speed). Ender 3 - issues with Pressure Advance Printed a calibration cube on my Ender 3 v2 Neo with Capricorn tube. I didn’t get the question. Seems that linear advance with klipper is the only solution. Or check it out in the app stores I found that klipper PID is much more precise than marlin's, klipper pid looks like mpc Pic. I spent hours and different settings trying to fix it. org Members Online. But, printing at fast speeds is challenging, and sudden changes in the print speeds Your side walls ain't bad, maybe too fast for that one corner. With correctly tuned PA your prints will be significantly nicer and your retractions will be much lower, in both distance and speed. my subreddits. I understand that it'll slow down the flow around corners so you don't get to much extrusion because your overlapping your extrusion when turning The fix for that is coasting at the end of a line. The solution is simple. 4mm hardened steel nozzle Amazon choice petg filament I see the bulging corners on the I usually do a temp tower,then flow test, then pressure advance i change without doing tests, rather i look at corners and walls to see it they bulging or too thin in a calibration cube. What that really means is Klipper is over-extruding as it decelerates into corners, which shouldn't happen. After studying and testing, we found the nozzle needs some time to reach a certain pressure level after accepting the force from the extruder before the molten filament can flow out of the nozzle constantly. Even at Extrusion Multiplayer 0. Look into tuning, there are more things happening here than just bulging corners. The Only issue I notice remaining is a consistant bulge on some layers. s. I could get rid of one but at the cost of the other. Corners are not bulging out as much. Or check it out in the app stores This was the main reason I switched to klipper. Skip to main content. and to get these 2 features running just follow The purpose of the tuning cube is to find where too much PA causes what looks like under extrusion; you're not trying to get a perfect cube but rather looking for the point where the corners look "the best" (not bulging out below or thinning out above). On creality print i printed the same model with the same speed, accels, flow, temps, layer height, layer width, z-offset, I have a CR6-SE with BTT SKR CR6 board, using a RPI 4 running Klipper. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. 5, which is an obvious overkill, the corners still bulge like crazy. Here, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and professionals gather to discuss, troubleshoot, and explore everything related to 3D printing with the Ender 3. Make sure the gantry is square with the sides and parallel with printer base. 3. Kinda bulged out and rounded. I therefore think your corners are either bulging due to chosen speed/Accel being too high for your kinematics or due to insufficient part cooling for the shorter layer time leaving the filament cooling down too slow. 6+mm dimensions at the corners. Pressure Advance in Klipper is designed to compensate for the side effects of instant speed changes that occur during fast print speeds. If I start to see too many bulging corners, I'll up the This defect looked like it was under extruding after sharp corners, and then it would normalize. Corners that are part of a continuous path of extrusion, even sharp corners, are unaffected. On creality print i printed the same model with the same speed, accels, flow, temps, layer height, layer width, z-offset, depending on what slicer you are using you might have the option to slow down at the corners to make them more accurate, it could be called "corner acceleration", "edge acceleration", or maybe even something like fast vs accurate print speed could affect it, if that does nothing you may need to adjust your filament flow rate too, just print a small rectangle and test the changes to your 205K subscribers in the ender3 community. The layers at the top and bottom of the “x” and “y” are bulged out. Finally figured out a fix. Normally the extruder decelerates at the same rate as the printhead, but at corners it takes a small amount of time for the residual pressure to drop, and the continued extrusion becomes noticeable. Put the light over top and we are almost 100% uniform! Also got the X to not protrude by switching to klipper (left 2 are Marlin). The cube shown was printed using the default settings At first I thought the bulging corners were caused by overextrusion. My first prints were rough and had bulging corners so I raised the hot end temp to 225c and bed to 60c. Thanks Reddit! Image Share Add a Comment. I've been trying to find a sweet spot between no ringing and and sharp corners (accel/jerk vs speed). Sounds like thats our for now, just got the printer and want to give it some time before i start doing brain surgery, though trying out Klipper is on the distant to-do list. On ender3 v3 se, klipper using orca slicer. If Linear Advance can diminish ghosting and prevent my corners from bulging at those speeds, it will significantly cut down my print times. I was going to mention maybe z-offset too high, but the bottom corner in the picture looks ok. ramping up the printing speeds for infill and internal perimeters (infill 100mm/s, internal perimeters 60mm/s) Turning jerk up to 20mm/s and and printing external perimeters at the same speed as jerk. Could also be the model flexing during printing which would also screw up top surface. This seems to happen with every hard corner that aligns with the Z axis. I’d prefer to keep the printer a standalone device and not have it connected to a computer to run. You can try to use an extrusion width of slightly smaller than the nozzle to get tighter corners. Old Printer? Cheap Printer? New Printer? Bad Prints? Great Prints? Klipper can help you and your machine produce beautiful prints at a fraction of the time. Prints came out nice, but I was printing at Old Printer? Cheap Printer? New Printer? Bad Prints? Great Prints? Klipper can help you and your machine produce beautiful prints at a fraction of the time. being unfamiliar with it at first there is a bit of a learning curve, but NERO 3D has some brilliant videos as well as Teaching Tech, so I'd recommend Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. Using Klipper now. Or check it out in the app stores all lines are bulging at the same point and all corners are bulging outwards, tried to take a good picture, k factor from 0 to 1, with k factor difference of 0. The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the most optimal prints. If your really have to have linear advance I would go with Klipper and use their pressure advance. If not tuned perfectly the bulging edges will add length to the measurements taken. Folks, I'm having difficulty with the square corner velocity setting. The odd thing is that it does do the retractions on infil and top and bottom layers, it's just the perimeter that's causing an issue. What slicer setting effects the "corner bulges" All other dims are accurate within . I’ve messed with jerk and acceleration, and speed quite a bit. That's all fine so long as you print fairly slow, but as soon as you speed up you have to deal with pressure spikes in the extruder. The KE is a high speed printer. i just did a print that would have taken 9 hours in 3 1/2 hours and it looks just as good with no bulging corners and a smaller z seam. There are wiring hacks which can enable linear advance in many cases. The goal is to eliminate the bulge. On creality print i printed the same model with the same speed, accels, flow, temps, layer height, layer width, z-offset, and everything else i can think of, and im getting beautiful no, as i said, it's not like i have a corner different from the others. Wonder why marlin pid is so bad. 2 board However, when I printed the test gcode from marlin, the different k Everything came out amazingly good, but i did notice that any exterior corners almost looked overextruded, like the photo shows. Klipper firmware is amazing. The gaps in your top surface and wall connections I think are due to an infill issue, not enough top layers, or both. My understanding of Linear Advance is that its firmware and certain hardware used to eliminate (or nearly eliminate) bulging around corners, like you can commonly see when printing 90 degree corners. Your calibration cubes aren't square -- there's definitely some skew in your gantry, and judging by the fact it's visible, it's a LOT of skew (more than Klipper's skew correction can likely compensate for). 11 mm is Simplify3D's corners are better than Cura's but not as good as SS. Read more about that here Welcome to the Ender 3 community, a specialized subreddit for all users of the Ender 3 3D printer. I already adjusted pressure advance smooth time, square corner velocity and many other Check the corner quality on your prints and decide on your compromise between the best corners and the speed of print. 5 was the best SCV value at which I could get an acceptable quality. Nowhere else has any signs of overextrusion though, and i double-checked the extruder calibration, came out spot-on according to my calipers. Significantly faster than the default 60mm/s at 500mm/s/s that it and to elaborate: your printer will slow down on corners, so it doesn't overshoot/create too many vibrations. 80mm/s, 1500accel, ender3 You should also be able to get rid of the terribly bulging corners by using Klipper's equivalent of linear Bulging corners is the third part of this, that's linear advance (M900) set in the custom gcode section of the filamnt profiles, it's pressure advance on klipper and the values are a bit different. Just with some ringing and maybe some bulging corners. And it’s a lot slower for me printing with LA because of extruder jerk settings. Otherwise drop your print speed to 45 and see how it goes. I remember i solved this before years ago when i first was using my ender 3. zncouu hvffsb hcjup kiois hkz ywnnav awoqj qycqp evlei sgrvgma